Wait...how can a trail that runs 211 miles be paved? After being awestruck by the beauty in Yosemite Valley, the trail will lull one into thinking that this will be just another trip to some scenic spots along the way. However, as the trail ascends and the sun starts to beat down, the hiker knows that great challenges lie ahead. The hiker will soon take pride in knowing that, although they are being passed by the masses of visitors, they will see sights and experience wonders that few of those visitors will encounter. This is unfortunate as arguably the best that nature has to offer is beyond the yellow brick road.

After setting off from the trailhead at Happy Isles, one of the first "major" sights along the trail is Vernal Fall. At the base of Vernal Fall, the trail splits into two forks -- one is the mist trail which goes next to the fall, while the other continues on the John Muir Trail proper.

Hikers Note: The John Muir Trail branch is less crowded, but more exposed, than the Mist Trail.

The crowds have now started to thin a little bit and by now the hiker realizes that when they see water falls, that means the trail is likely to be steep. If the hiker took the John Muir Trail "branch" there is also little shade. Not to worry, once the hiker reaches Nevada Fall the terrain and sun start to subside.

Nevada Fall might be considered a "true" starting point for hikers on the John Muir Trail. Before reaching this point, the trail is unpaved and folks without backpacks become a minority rather than the majority on the trail. The hiker is also rewarded with an outstanding view of the Panorama Cliffs and edge of Yosemite Valley.

Nevada Fall is about 3 miles into your journey. Surprisingly this impressive fall will be unmatched for the rest of the trail. Other falls will be seen, but none as large or with the sheer drop-off as Nevada.

Hikers Note: There are outhouses located near the top of the fall.

A sight like this cannot be experienced without venturing into wilderness. No, this is not the classic "portrait" of Half Dome, but rather a side that few have seen -- nor can be seen by staying in Yosemite Valley.

Hikers Note: The Trail junction to Half Dome is at about mile 7 and is about 2.5 miles to the top of Half Dome.

View across Little Yosemite Valley

Little Yosemite Valley starts a transition from the Valley to the High Sierra. The hiker has also left the Merced River and now will be following (for parts) Sunrise Creek. The hiker should look over their shoulder for one of the last views of the Valley displayed on so many postcards. One is now truly in the realm of the hiker.

The trail now runs well into the forest. Peering through the occasional break in trees is Half Dome -- only if the hiker pauses to look where they have come from. A sight like this reminds the hiker to stop and look around (360 degrees) every once in while.

Hikers Note: See if you can spot people climbing up the cables on Half Dome when you take a break.

east face of Half Dome

Sunrise High Sierra camp is one of several established in Yosemite National Park. A person can rent a tent cabin, buy a meal and even get a shower at these camps. Sunrise may be the hiker's first overnight camp, but don't expect solitude. The hiker will be rewarded by a scenic meadow, good company, and a possible visit by the notorious Yosemite bears.

Hikers Note: Bear cannisters are required in the Park, but they also have bear boxes at the High Sierra camps to store food/toiletry items.

The elevation is about 9,400 feet at this point. The trail is leveling off and the hiker will be going through some picturesque meadows -- in Yosemite and beyond. The meadow near Sunrise High Sierra camp is an excellent starting point and example of the others to come.

Long Meadow is just that -- a long narrow meadow. Unfortunately due to a combination of heavy trail use, and water, the trail now is several "lanes" wide. Please remember to treat the trail with care.

Hikers Note: By now you will have experienced how well or poor your mosquito protection has been working. The most effective insect repellent generally has DEET included as the main active ingredient.

The first, "pass" encountered is Cathedral Pass at 9,680 feet. This and a couple more "passes" are the crossing of higher points or drainage features along the trail, but hardly the true passes encountered. The first true pass isn't for many miles away -- at the boundary of Yosemite National Park. Crossing Cathedral Pass does, however, shortly reward the hiker with a splendid view of Cathedral Peak.

Cathedral Peak stands 10,940 feet above sea level. It is one of the most majestic peaks in all of Yosemite National Park. Perhaps this is why John Muir was lured to climb the peak in 1869 -- the first recorded ascent.

Looking over their shoulder, the hiker will see a view just as majestic as Cathedral Peak. In fact, if one has time, just west of Cathedral Peak is a short trail to the Cathedral Lakes -- a good place to catch a bite or spend the night.

The John Muir Trail starts to head back into a forested section between Cathedral Peak and Tuolumne Meadows. This will be a welcome segment shaded from the sun -- especially if it is mid-Summer.

Shortly the Trail leads the hiker into the Tuolumne Meadows area. There are a number of trail junctions that lead to Tuolumne Meadows - west trailhead, Visitor's Center, Tuolumne Campground, and Tuolumne Meadows Lodge.

Most hikers will spend the night at the Tuolumne Meadows campground, which has a backpackers' area. Many hikers on the John Muir Trail also start at this point, Tuolumne Meadows (8,800 feet), due to their limited capacity to carry food and to avoid the steep climb from Happy Isles (4,000 feet).

Hikers Note: From Happy Isles to Tuolumne Meadows Campground is about 25 miles. You can purchase a shower at the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge for a small fee.

If one didn't know it, the trail from Happy Isles to Tuolumne Meadows heads north. Tuolumne Meadows is the northern most point of the John Muir Trail. Now, however, the trail turns and heads south and into an area of Yosemite National Park few visitors have seen -- Lyell Canyon.

The next 8 miles are very flat. The hiker is now entering Lyell Canyon which is a long meadow-filled canyon. At the southern end of the canyon is Donohue Pass and the border of Yosemite National Park.

Hikers Note: The John Muir Trail joins up, and shares the same path, as the Pacific Crest Trail at Tuolumne Meadows.

Just like before in Long Meadow, the Trail may have several "lanes". In this case all roads lead to Donohue Pass. In fact, this is arguably the hardest place to get lost on the trail as one simply has to follow the canyon to the end, then go left of Lyell Peak.

Hikers Note: To avoid the potential for bear encounters, the hiker may choose to continue through Lyell Canyon and camp at "upper" Lyell Canyon.

This picture is a typical example of Lyell Creek. A broad, winding creek, similar to the Tuolumne River which Lyell Creek feeds into. If the hiker brought a fishing pole, there are ample spots to stop and try one's luck for some rainbow, brook or even brown trout.

Once the hiker reaches the end of Lyell Canyon, they will begin their ascent toward Donohue peak. Make sure to pause occasionally and look over your shoulder to see the canyon below. In the distance one will see Mammoth Mountain. Not the Mammoth Mountain famous for skiing (that is further south), but rather a taller peak (12,106 feet) in Yosemite National Park.

Just before the final accent to Donohue Pass the trail starts to level out and one can enjoy the alpine "meadows" experienced along many places on the John Muir Trail. The hiker is now above 10,000 feet and the tallest peak above them is Mt. Lyell. At 13,114 it is the highest point in Yosemite National Park.

Hikers Note: Hikers that camp in this area, rather than further below in Lyell Canyon, are less likely to have bear encounters.

As one nears Donohue Pass you will be rewarded with a view not yet experienced on the trail; an expansive view that includes all of the granite peaks and many valleys in the Sierra Nevada -- the range of light.

Donohue Pass (11,056 feet) is at the border of Yosemite National Park and the Ansel Adams Wilderness. This is the first true pass (and 6th highest of eight) that will eventually be crossed. The Trail now enters the wilderness named after the person arguably most responsible for creating iconic images of our national parks -- Ansel Adams.