The
John Muir Wilderness is massive in length - over 100 miles at its longest point.
It covers the central/south portion of the Sierra Nevada range, on both the
west and east side. The west side offers access from California's Central Valley
and has many small towns and camper facilities. The east side is steep, very
steep, and is accessible from the Owens Valley. Named after the father of environmentalism
and champion of the national park system, this Wilderness has everything the
Sierra Nevada has to offer -- lakes, meadows, streams, mountain peaks, forests
and more.
The John Muir Trail travels about 53 miles in the John Muir Wilderness. In
terms of the John Muir Trail, this Wilderness essentially covers the area between
National Parks/Monuments. The
mid-point for the Trail lies here. Typically, it is at (or near) Edison or
Florence Lakes that the through hiker will take a brief break and re-supply.
The John Muir Wilderness also affords the hiker spots to soak their feet in
hot springs, grab a warm meal, and "traverse" from "easy" east
side access points to west side access points for the trail.
Trail Description
A description of the trail, sights and other notable
items is below. For those following the trail, the description has been ordered
from North to South. Click on any picture for a
larger view and some pictures have an "expanded" view which means
it includes more than what is shown below.

Aftermath of fire in 1990s
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This
burnt forest is not the result of volcanic activity in the area, but
rather of a forest fire. Although this occurred in the 1990's the forest
is still a long way from being "mature". It shows not only
how fragile nature can be, but also how resilient it is... given
enough time.
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As
the trail begins a long set of switchbacks, one of the most panoramic
views along the entire John Muir Trail is gained. Between the trees
one can see the Minarets, Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak.
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Panoramic view of the Minarets and Ritter Range
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Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak |
Mt
Ritter is one of the most prominent peaks in this range of the Sierra
Nevada. As is the case with many notable peaks, this one was climbed
by John Muir as well.
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If
one had doubts about this being a volcanic area, this surely
puts doubts to rest when the John Muir Trail passes by the Red Cones.
These cinder
cones are the remnants of volcanic activities in
the recent geologic past. These also are near the northern boundary
of the John
Muir Wilderness.
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One of the Red Cones
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Wildflowers along the trail
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Summer
is an excellent time to see wildflowers along the trail. At higher
elevations, even in late Summer the wildflowers are blooming due
to the late snow melt. Lupine (purple/blue) and Indian Paintbrush (red)
are some of the more abundant and beautiful flowers one will see.
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Between
Deer Creek and the Duck Pass trail there is about a 6.75 mile stretch
with no water. This may seem trivial, but this portion of the trail
faces south, has little tree cover and can be very hot in Summer. Hikers
should make sure
to fill or "top off" water bottles before this stretch.
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A stream from Duck Lake
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looking down Cascade Valley and West
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Just
after
Deer Creek, the John Muir Trail has been following the northern slope
of Cascade Valley. Although hot, this portion of the trail offers
wide views of Cascade Valley and further West toward California's great
Central Valley.
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Just
before Purple Lake, the trail rounds a small peak and gives the hiker
a wide, expansive view of eastern range of the Sierra Nevada. If
one looks hard enough, they can see high Sierra Meadows, and possibly
Tully
Hole -- where the trail passes through in just a few miles.
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Looking east toward Tully Hole
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Purple Lake
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The
lake itself is not purple, but the rocks and peaks surrounding the
lake contain a purple hue. Purple Lake is a nice spot
to
have a brief rest or a bite to eat. If the hiker brought a fishing
pole, this is your first chance in a while to try your luck.
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Virginia
Lake is one of the prettiest found along the entire length of the
trail. This is definitely a spot that mandates some time, possibly
even spending
a night.
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Virginia Lake from the John Muir
Trail
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Tully Hole
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From
Virginia Lake, the trail switchbacks down into
a location called Tully Hole. This place is a nice meadow tucked away
along
Fish Creek. This too is a nice place to stop, but beware of mosquitoes
(as
is the case in most every meadow along the trail).
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The
bridge over Fish Creek marks a low point for the hiker on the trail
before climbing up over the next pass -- Silver Pass. This location
is also
at the head
of the
long valley (Cascade Valley) the John Muir Trail was following just
a few miles ago.
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Fish Creek Bridge
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Sunrise on the Minarets, Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak
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Once
again it is time for the hiker to look over their shoulder if they have
not done so recently. As the trail climbs its way up to "Indian" lakes
and Silver Pass, the view of the Minarets and other peaks is superb.
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Just
north of Silver Pass are the "Indian" lakes - Lake of the
Lone Indian, Papoose Lake, Chief Lake, Warrior Lake and Squaw Lake.
Each lake has much
to offer and all have areas that make for wonderful overnight stay
Hikers Note:
By camping at one of these lakes, one can go
over Silver Pass early the following day.
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Sunset on Squaw Lake
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A small lake below Silver Pass
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Silver
Pass is located on the Silver Divide -- an east to west ridge of
the Sierra Nevada. Not more than a little over a mile west of Silver
Pass is Goodale Pass (at a slightly higher elevation). Rarely does
one find
two passes so close to one another in the Sierra Nevada.
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Silver
Pass rises to 10,900 feet and is the 7th highest pass, of the eight "true"
passes on the John Muir Trail. The peaks of the Minarets can be seen
to the North as well as many of the "Indian" lakes.
Hikers Note:
If
one looks west across the ridge above Chief Lake, just the other side
of the tallest peak is Goodale Pass.
Both passes offer the hiker traveling south access to Lake Edison
and the Vermillion Resort (a good re-supply stop).
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Looking north from Silver Pass
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Looking south just below Silver Pass
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The
south side of Silver Pass is one of the most gentle slopes of any of
the passes on the John Muir Trail. Those hiking northward should be very
pleased as the typical switchbacks are almost entirely absent.
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Unlike
the north side of Silver Pass which has numerous lakes, the south
side has only one named lake -- Silver Pass Lake. The almost level
trail soon follows Silver Pass Creek which originates from this
lake.
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Silver Pass Lake
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The John Muir Trail
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At
this point, the hiker has traveled over 80 miles on the John Muir Trail.
Two of eight major passes have been crossed, one National Park, a National
Monument, and one wilderness area have already been imprinted on the
hiker's heart and memory.
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Pocket
Meadow is at the junction of Silver Pass Creek and another tributary
that leads to Lake Edison. The hiker may start encountering day hikers
from Lake Edison that are exploring the area. Lake Edison is one of
the most distant
points into the Sierra Nevada that can be reached
by car from the west side.
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Pocket Meadow
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Cascade on Silver Pass Creek
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As
the hiker leaves Pocket Meadow the trail
descends more steeply now. The trail eventually is "squeezed" between
the Vermillion Cliffs and the northern ridge that forms the Mono
Creek Canyon. The reward for the hiker are cascades along Silver
Pass Creek.
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Once
the trail levels out, the hiker will shortly reach a trail junction
that will take them to Lake Edison where they can catch a ferry boat
to the Vermillion
Valley Resort on the other side of the lake.
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Paul on trail near Quail Meadow
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Lake Edison and Vermillion Cliffs
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Most
hikers depart the John Muir Trail at Lake Edison. They take advantage
of this opportunity as the Vermillion Valley Resort offers a place
to re-supply -- either by mailing a food drop to one's self or purchases
a limited
amount of food at the store.
Hikers Note: The
trail to the lake leads to the ferry boat landing which the hiker
can take to Vermillion Camp for a fee. The ferry typically runs once
in the morning and once late in the day.
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Vermillion
Valley Resort is an excellent place to take a day or two rest from hiking.
The resort has a small store, restaurant, telephone service and even
Internet service. This is closest spot to civilization that one will
encounter until they finish the John Muir Trail.
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Vermillion Resort
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Mono Creek Bridge
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After
taking the morning ferry across Lake Edison, a short (about 1 mile)
trail leads up to the John Muir Trail at the Mono Creek Bridge.
It is a good thing the hiker is well rested as now their pack is much
heavier
with a new food supply and the next several miles are uphill.
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The
trail now heads south and up above Lake Edison. Parts of the trail
have a wooden path which makes following the trail easy. Other
parts of the John Muir Trail may be hard to follow especially if snow
is
still
present. When in doubt about where the trail leads, look for rock
cairns -- rocks stacked on top of one another. These cairns help
lead the
way.
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The John Muir Trail
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View toward the north
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This
section of the John Muir Trail resembles that of approaching a pass:
has many switchbacks, constant uphill, and steep. However, in this
case the hiker is merely climbing the ridge "out of" Lake Edison.
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After
one reaches the plateau above Lake Edison, the trail drops down to
Bear Creek. The trail follows Bear Creek toward Seldon Pass.
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Bear Creek
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Rosemarie Meadow
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Rosemarie
Meadow is a true jewel on the John Muir Trail. The setting for this meadow
is spectacular with Bear Creek, wildflowers, and mountain peaks surrounding
the meadow. This is a fine place to take a break, take some pictures,
and take back a memory of one of the nicest spots along the trail.
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Just
below Seldon Pass is Marie Lake. This lake is almost cut in half
by a jetty that extends almost entirely across the lake. This
is excellent place to camp and try one's luck at fishing. The trail
is also a (relatively) gentle grade up to the pass, which is about
a mile away.
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Marie Lake from near Seldon Pass
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Looking south from Seldon Pass
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Seldon
Pass rises to about 10,900 feet -- the same as Silver Pass. The significance
of Seldon Pass is shortly after the hiker descends and approaches
Heart Lake, they reach the half-way point on the
John Muir
Trail. That equates to
about 105 miles hiked so far.
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The
John Muir Trail travels between the Sallie Keyes Lakes. The area around
the lakes is filled with wildflowers in Summer.
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Lupine along the trail
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The eastern one of the Sallie Keyes Lakes
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The
Sallie Keyes Lakes have excellent spots for camping or for lunch.
They are also a good spot to refill one's water supply as the trail
past this
point can be hot and exposed to the sun in Summer.
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Make
sure to "stop and smell the roses" as you travel along
the trail.
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Indian Paintbrush and Lupine near the Sallie Keyes Lakes
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A hot spring near Muir Trail Ranch
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Another
favorite stopping point along the John Muir Trail is near Muir
Trail Ranch. The hiker must make a decision about a mile north of the
ranch
as they can either go to the ranch, or take "a short cut" and
continue along the trail (bi-passing the Ranch). The Ranch is not only
another
potential spot for a food drop, but also has campsites along
the San Joaquin River. An added bonus are the hot springs located just
across
the river.
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The
hiker is likely to encounter numerous wildlife along the trail. Animals
that may be spotted include: mule deer, marmot, ground squirrel,
chipmunk, and brown bear. Other, more rare animals include mountain
sheep, and
mountain lions. It is important to keep alert both on the trail and
while at camp if one wants to see these animals -- or keep food from
being eaten.
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mule deer
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Click
HERE to continue south to the Kings Canyon National Park section
of the John Muir Trail
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