John Muir Wilderness Section MapThe John Muir Wilderness is massive in length - over 100 miles at its longest point. It covers the central/south portion of the Sierra Nevada range, on both the west and east side. The west side offers access from California's Central Valley and has many small towns and camper facilities. The east side is steep, very steep, and is accessible from the Owens Valley. Named after the father of environmentalism and champion of the national park system, this Wilderness has everything the Sierra Nevada has to offer -- lakes, meadows, streams, mountain peaks, forests and more.

The John Muir Trail travels about 53 miles in the John Muir Wilderness. In terms of the John Muir Trail, this Wilderness essentially covers the area between National Parks/Monuments. The mid-point for the Trail lies here. Typically, it is at (or near) Edison or Florence Lakes that the through hiker will take a brief break and re-supply. The John Muir Wilderness also affords the hiker spots to soak their feet in hot springs, grab a warm meal, and "traverse" from "easy" east side access points to west side access points for the trail.

Trail Description

A description of the trail, sights and other notable items is below. For those following the trail, the description has been ordered from North to South. Click on any picture for a larger view and some pictures have an "expanded" view which means it includes more than what is shown below.

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Aftermath of fire in 1990s

This burnt forest is not the result of volcanic activity in the area, but rather of a forest fire. Although this occurred in the 1990's the forest is still a long way from being "mature". It shows not only how fragile nature can be, but also how resilient it is... given enough time.

 

As the trail begins a long set of switchbacks, one of the most panoramic views along the entire John Muir Trail is gained. Between the trees one can see the Minarets, Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak.

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Panoramic view of the Minarets and Ritter Range

 

Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak

Mt Ritter is one of the most prominent peaks in this range of the Sierra Nevada. As is the case with many notable peaks, this one was climbed by John Muir as well.

 

If one had doubts about this being a volcanic area, this surely puts doubts to rest when the John Muir Trail passes by the Red Cones. These cinder cones are the remnants of volcanic activities in the recent geologic past. These also are near the northern boundary of the John Muir Wilderness.

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One of the Red Cones

 

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Wildflowers along the trail

Summer is an excellent time to see wildflowers along the trail. At higher elevations, even in late Summer the wildflowers are blooming due to the late snow melt. Lupine (purple/blue) and Indian Paintbrush (red) are some of the more abundant and beautiful flowers one will see.

 

Between Deer Creek and the Duck Pass trail there is about a 6.75 mile stretch with no water. This may seem trivial, but this portion of the trail faces south, has little tree cover and can be very hot in Summer. Hikers should make sure to fill or "top off" water bottles before this stretch.

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A stream from Duck Lake

 

looking down Cascade Valley and West

Just after Deer Creek, the John Muir Trail has been following the northern slope of Cascade Valley. Although hot, this portion of the trail offers wide views of Cascade Valley and further West toward California's great Central Valley.

 

Just before Purple Lake, the trail rounds a small peak and gives the hiker a wide, expansive view of eastern range of the Sierra Nevada. If one looks hard enough, they can see high Sierra Meadows, and possibly Tully Hole -- where the trail passes through in just a few miles.

Looking east toward Tully Hole

 

Purple Lake

The lake itself is not purple, but the rocks and peaks surrounding the lake contain a purple hue. Purple Lake is a nice spot to have a brief rest or a bite to eat. If the hiker brought a fishing pole, this is your first chance in a while to try your luck.

 

Virginia Lake is one of the prettiest found along the entire length of the trail. This is definitely a spot that mandates some time, possibly even spending a night.

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Virginia Lake from the John Muir Trail

 

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Tully Hole

From Virginia Lake, the trail switchbacks down into a location called Tully Hole. This place is a nice meadow tucked away along Fish Creek. This too is a nice place to stop, but beware of mosquitoes (as is the case in most every meadow along the trail).

 

The bridge over Fish Creek marks a low point for the hiker on the trail before climbing up over the next pass -- Silver Pass. This location is also at the head of the long valley (Cascade Valley) the John Muir Trail was following just a few miles ago.

Fish Creek Bridge

 

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Sunrise on the Minarets, Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak

Once again it is time for the hiker to look over their shoulder if they have not done so recently. As the trail climbs its way up to "Indian" lakes and Silver Pass, the view of the Minarets and other peaks is superb.

 

Just north of Silver Pass are the "Indian" lakes - Lake of the Lone Indian, Papoose Lake, Chief Lake, Warrior Lake and Squaw Lake. Each lake has much to offer and all have areas that make for wonderful overnight stay

Hikers Note: By camping at one of these lakes, one can go over Silver Pass early the following day.

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Sunset on Squaw Lake

 

A small lake below Silver Pass

Silver Pass is located on the Silver Divide -- an east to west ridge of the Sierra Nevada. Not more than a little over a mile west of Silver Pass is Goodale Pass (at a slightly higher elevation). Rarely does one find two passes so close to one another in the Sierra Nevada.

 

Silver Pass rises to 10,900 feet and is the 7th highest pass, of the eight "true" passes on the John Muir Trail. The peaks of the Minarets can be seen to the North as well as many of the "Indian" lakes.

Hikers Note: If one looks west across the ridge above Chief Lake, just the other side of the tallest peak is Goodale Pass. Both passes offer the hiker traveling south access to Lake Edison and the Vermillion Resort (a good re-supply stop).

Looking north from Silver Pass

 

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Looking south just below Silver Pass

The south side of Silver Pass is one of the most gentle slopes of any of the passes on the John Muir Trail. Those hiking northward should be very pleased as the typical switchbacks are almost entirely absent.

 

Unlike the north side of Silver Pass which has numerous lakes, the south side has only one named lake -- Silver Pass Lake. The almost level trail soon follows Silver Pass Creek which originates from this lake.

Silver Pass Lake

 

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The John Muir Trail

At this point, the hiker has traveled over 80 miles on the John Muir Trail. Two of eight major passes have been crossed, one National Park, a National Monument, and one wilderness area have already been imprinted on the hiker's heart and memory.

 

Pocket Meadow is at the junction of Silver Pass Creek and another tributary that leads to Lake Edison. The hiker may start encountering day hikers from Lake Edison that are exploring the area. Lake Edison is one of the most distant points into the Sierra Nevada that can be reached by car from the west side.

Pocket Meadow

 

Cascade on Silver Pass Creek

As the hiker leaves Pocket Meadow the trail descends more steeply now. The trail eventually is "squeezed" between the Vermillion Cliffs and the northern ridge that forms the Mono Creek Canyon. The reward for the hiker are cascades along Silver Pass Creek.

 

Once the trail levels out, the hiker will shortly reach a trail junction that will take them to Lake Edison where they can catch a ferry boat to the Vermillion Valley Resort on the other side of the lake.

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Paul on trail near Quail Meadow

 

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Lake Edison and Vermillion Cliffs

Most hikers depart the John Muir Trail at Lake Edison. They take advantage of this opportunity as the Vermillion Valley Resort offers a place to re-supply -- either by mailing a food drop to one's self or purchases a limited amount of food at the store.

Hikers Note: The trail to the lake leads to the ferry boat landing which the hiker can take to Vermillion Camp for a fee. The ferry typically runs once in the morning and once late in the day.

 

Vermillion Valley Resort is an excellent place to take a day or two rest from hiking. The resort has a small store, restaurant, telephone service and even Internet service. This is closest spot to civilization that one will encounter until they finish the John Muir Trail.

Vermillion Resort

 

Mono Creek Bridge

After taking the morning ferry across Lake Edison, a short (about 1 mile) trail leads up to the John Muir Trail at the Mono Creek Bridge. It is a good thing the hiker is well rested as now their pack is much heavier with a new food supply and the next several miles are uphill.

 

The trail now heads south and up above Lake Edison. Parts of the trail have a wooden path which makes following the trail easy. Other parts of the John Muir Trail may be hard to follow especially if snow is still present. When in doubt about where the trail leads, look for rock cairns -- rocks stacked on top of one another. These cairns help lead the way.

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The John Muir Trail

 

View toward the north

This section of the John Muir Trail resembles that of approaching a pass: has many switchbacks, constant uphill, and steep. However, in this case the hiker is merely climbing the ridge "out of" Lake Edison.

 

After one reaches the plateau above Lake Edison, the trail drops down to Bear Creek. The trail follows Bear Creek toward Seldon Pass.

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Bear Creek

 

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Rosemarie Meadow

Rosemarie Meadow is a true jewel on the John Muir Trail. The setting for this meadow is spectacular with Bear Creek, wildflowers, and mountain peaks surrounding the meadow. This is a fine place to take a break, take some pictures, and take back a memory of one of the nicest spots along the trail.

 

Just below Seldon Pass is Marie Lake. This lake is almost cut in half by a jetty that extends almost entirely across the lake. This is excellent place to camp and try one's luck at fishing. The trail is also a (relatively) gentle grade up to the pass, which is about a mile away.

Marie Lake from near Seldon Pass

 

Looking south from Seldon Pass

Seldon Pass rises to about 10,900 feet -- the same as Silver Pass. The significance of Seldon Pass is shortly after the hiker descends and approaches Heart Lake, they reach the half-way point on the John Muir Trail. That equates to about 105 miles hiked so far.

 

The John Muir Trail travels between the Sallie Keyes Lakes. The area around the lakes is filled with wildflowers in Summer.

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Lupine along the trail

 

The eastern one of the Sallie Keyes Lakes

The Sallie Keyes Lakes have excellent spots for camping or for lunch. They are also a good spot to refill one's water supply as the trail past this point can be hot and exposed to the sun in Summer.

 

Make sure to "stop and smell the roses" as you travel along the trail.

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Indian Paintbrush and Lupine near the Sallie Keyes Lakes

 

A hot spring near Muir Trail Ranch

Another favorite stopping point along the John Muir Trail is near Muir Trail Ranch. The hiker must make a decision about a mile north of the ranch as they can either go to the ranch, or take "a short cut" and continue along the trail (bi-passing the Ranch). The Ranch is not only another potential spot for a food drop, but also has campsites along the San Joaquin River. An added bonus are the hot springs located just across the river.

 

The hiker is likely to encounter numerous wildlife along the trail. Animals that may be spotted include: mule deer, marmot, ground squirrel, chipmunk, and brown bear. Other, more rare animals include mountain sheep, and mountain lions. It is important to keep alert both on the trail and while at camp if one wants to see these animals -- or keep food from being eaten.

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mule deer

 

Click HERE to continue south to the Kings Canyon National Park section of the John Muir Trail

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