After leaving Muir Trail Ranch area, the trail parallels the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. At the junction of the San Joaquin River and Piute Creek is a bridge which takes the hiker into Kings Canyon National Park. Up to this point, parts of the John Muir Trail have been accessible by non-hikers. The Kings Canyon section, however, is for hikers only as the closest a road approaches the trail is about 4 miles and a mountain pass away.

The South Fork of the San Joaquin River eventually leads to THE San Joaquin River, one of California's great rivers. Along this portion of the South Fork, the trail hugs the river.

Hikers Note: Along the South Fork, there are a few places that have areas to camp, but much of the trail is on boulders above the water's edge.

The canyon cut by the South Fork San Joaquin River can be very steep at spots. This makes for a ragging river along parts. Quite a contrast from the same river that the hiker crossed to reach the hot springs back at Muir Trail Ranch.

The trail will cross over the South Fork San Joaquin River using bridges at several spots. Each bridge crossing has spots for campsites or to replenish water. These bridges also provide access points for fishing as well.

After crossing the bridge at the junction of the Goddard Canyon Trail, the John Muir Trail begins to climb up to the Evolution Valley. Along the way the hiker will see several water falls on Evolution Creek, as well as many other wonderful sights such as more wildflowers.

Once the trail starts to level out, the hiker will have to cross Evolution Creek -- no bridge this time. The ford across the river is relatively easy as the water is only about knee deep and not too fast. This is probably the widest river crossing on the John Muir Trail.

Hikers Note: Remember, when crossing a river to unlatch the belt on the pack so in the event that you fall, you can "escape" from your pack and reduce the risk of drowning.

The trail through Evolution Valley is relatively flat. Much of the trail lies in forest, but there are several meadows that allow for open views and locations for campsites. The hiker should enjoy this stretch of the trail as it doesn't get much easier (or scenic) for hiking.

Evolution Meadow is the first meadow the hiker encounters in Evolution Valley. The first site that strikes the hiker is the large granite mountain that "overlooks" the meadow. This peak is known as The Hermit (12,328 feet) and rises over 2,000 feet above the valley floor.

The National Park Service has ranger stations located in the back country of Kings Canyon National Park (as well as other national parks). These cabins are generally staffed during the Summer months. However, many times the hiker may not see a ranger as they frequently are away from the cabin (possibly for several days) performing various work. The ranger cabin in McClure meadow is slightly hidden from view from the John Muir Trail.

McClure Meadow simply put is one of the most scenic locations anywhere in the world. When most people think of picturesque national parks, Yosemite, Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon likely come to mind. However, the back country of Kings Canyon National Park is as picturesque as any national park in our system.

After leaving Evolution Valley, the trail climbs up to Evolution Basin. This lake filled basin has many peaks named after famous scientists and people in the field of evolution. These peaks also rise to heights well over 13,000 feet.

The first lake encountered in Evolution Basin is Evolution Lake. This fine lake sits below Mt. Mendel (13,710 feet) and Mt. Darwin (13,831 feet). The setting sun on these peaks is unrivaled and makes this lake a prime location for an overnight stop.

The next lake in Evolution Basin is Sapphire Lake. The name for this lake should be apparent. Mt. Huxley adds to the drama of this lake on a stormy day.

The John Muir Trail, all the way from Evolution Lake to the start of Le Conte Canyon (about 8 miles) is entirely above tree line. The trail is wide open to grand views and jagged peaks.

Hikers Note: Any of the lakes in Evolution Basin make for a fine campsite. Just remember to camp at least 100 feet from the lake edge or other water sources.

By the time the hiker reaches the third "larger" lake in the Evolution Basin, they are at 11,000 feet. This elevation has been attained without yet going over a pass, which puts the hiker at the highest point yet on the John Muir Trail.

Wanda Lake (11,400 feet) sits below Muir Pass. If one looks hard, or has binoculars (or a telephoto camera lens) they are able to see Muir Hut at the top of Muir Pass. The pass is deceptively close as it is still well over a mile from the southern edge of Wanda Lake.

Hikers Note: This is the last close water source until the hiker descends to the other side of the pass to Helen Lake -- it would be prudent to fill or top off one's water at Wanda Lake.

A better angle shows how far Muir Pass is from Wanda Lake (the more distant one in the picture at the left). The lakes on both sides of the pass (Wanda and Helen) are named for John Muir's daughters.

Muir Pass at 11, 955 is the highest one so far on the John Muir Trail. It, however, is only the 5th tallest overall. At the top of the pass is Muir Hut. This shelter was built by the California Conservation Corps in 1931 in tribute to John Muir and for a shelter for those caught in bad weather. Most hikers take a well deserved break at the hut.

Hikers Note: The Muir Hut is a nice place for a break, but probably not an overnight stay unless the hiker is caught in bad weather.

Either side of Muir Pass may have snow well into late Summer. However, the East side has snow due to it being located in a more of sheltered canyon. Helen Lake can be seen shortly after departing Muir Pass. It's waters are crystal clear.

Hikers Note: If snow does cover the trail, simply head for Helen Lake. Once you reach the lake, the trail follows it around it's south side.

The John Muir Trail continues to follow a canyon past Helen Lake and by two other (unnamed) lakes. Several sections of the trail are quite steep and the hiker can expect stream crossings (some of which may be difficult during high water). Once past the 2nd of the unnamed lakes, and at the start of tree line, the trail becomes easier to follow. A nice spot is just below Black Giant (a peak) where there is a nice meadow and waterfall. This is a good site for camping or taking a break.

Le Conte Canyon

For about the next five miles, the trail follows Le Conte Canyon. This long canyon has beautify meadows and classic mountain peaks. It has been shaped by the Middle Fork of the Kings River. As the John Muir Trail transitions from an East direction to a South direction, views of Big Pete Meadows and distant peaks come into view.

Two meadows in Le Conte Canyon are worth stopping at. The first is Big Pete Meadow and the second is Little Pete Meadow. If one is here early or late in the day, they may see deer grazing in the meadows. Either location makes for an excellent campsite or stopping point for lunch.

At the northern end of Le Conte Canyon rises Langille Peak. This peak along with others form a ridge that runs on the west side of Le Conte Canyon. The hiker may pause to look toward the top of this peak, as just about seven miles ago at Muir Pass, they were almost as high as this peak.

In the middle of Le Conte Canyon (at the Bishop Pass Trail junction) is a ranger station. This is also a popular spot, believe it or not, for some adventurous folks to try kayaking -- inflatable kayaks.

The Citadel (11,738 feet) is another iconic peak along the John Muir Trail. This peak is just as identifiable as Cathedral Peak, Banner Peak or others yet to be seen on the Trail.

The last, and possibly the prettiest, meadow in Le Conte Canyon is Grouse Meadow. Only recently was Grouse Meadow created by the silting up of a small lake. In fact, in the early season this meadow may be flooded and return to a (temporary) lake. This is another place the hiker will want to pause and absorb some of the finest scenery the Sierra Nevada has to offer.

After Grouse Meadow, the John Muir Trail turns east and follows Palisade Creek. The junction with the Simpson Meadow Trail marks the low spot; from this point the trail starts to gain elevation again until Mather pass which is just over 10 miles away. Just before the trail starts to climb above tree line is Deer Meadow -- another nice rest stop or campsite.

The John Muir Trail eventually leaves tree line just past Deer Meadow and climbs the Golden Staircase -- a set of switchbacks that was the last section of the John Muir Trail to be built. Above the Golden Staircase is a fall on Palisade Creek which signals a leveling of the trail and the edge of the lower Palisade Lake.

By the time the hiker has reached Upper Palisade Lake, the Palisades have come into view. The "Pals" are a series of peaks in the Sierra that are noted for 1) being over 14,000 feet and 2) being excellent mountaineering climbing locations. There are more peaks here over 14,000 feet than anywhere else in the Sierra Nevada.

After leaving Upper Palisade Lake, the trail heads directly for Mather Pass. This pass at 12,100 feet is a new high point on the trail for the hiker. At the top of the pass one still looks "up" to see the 14,000 peaks of the Palisades to the north. Looking south one can almost see the next pass the trail goes over, Pinchot Pass, which is only about 10 miles away.

The south side of Mather Pass looks like a wall. However, the good news (especially for those hiking north on the trail) is that this wall is relatively small and it is only here that there are switchbacks. Otherwise the trail leads past a small unnamed lake and into tundra like country in what is called the Upper Basin. Views to the south are amazing!

The Upper Basin area is a nice place for a campsite. It has running water, tundra like ground (soft), and just barely approaches tree line This is a likely spot to see deer or marmots too.

Hikers Note: Since Upper Basin is above tree line, the morning sun quickly will dry out one's tent or gear that may be wet from overnight dew or condensation -- something to consider when choosing an overnight location.

The trail continues down from Upper Basin until it reaches the South Fork of the Kings River. The hiker will have to find a location to cross this river (prepare for a wet crossing). The trail then starts climbing again toward Pinchot Pass. Several lakes are along this stretch of the trail, with the largest one being Lake Marjorie. This lake rivals other lakes seen on the trail in terms of beauty.

Pinchot Pass is at 12,130 feet -- yet another new high point. If one looks back (north), they can almost see Mather Pass. Pinchot is the 2nd highest pass on the John Muir Trail.

There are several small, unnamed lakes on the south side of Pinchot Pass. The trail on this side of the pass, like Mather Pass before, is relatively gentle with a few switchbacks that lead into a more gradual decent of the trail.

The trail comes close, but not immediately by, to the two Twin Lakes, just below Mt. Cedric Wright. These lakes are a nice place to stop, refill with water and take a break. The trail near these lakes also offers a view toward Mt. Clarence King - another iconic mountain in the Sierra Nevada.

For over three miles the John Muir Trail follows Woods Creek. This creek eventually joins the South Fork of the Kings River. It is the South Fork of the Kings River that one sees when visiting the "main" part Kings Canyon National Park by car.

Arguably the most elegant bridge on the John Muir Trail is the Woods Creek Bridge. This suspension bridge is only wide enough to accommodate one hiker at a time to cross. The Woods Creek Bridge is also a popular spot along the John Muir Trail as there are campsites, bear boxes and a junction with another trail that leads to Zumwalt Meadow, the car accessible side of Kings Canyon National Park.

Woods Creek crossing marks another low spot on the trail. The bridge crossing is at approximately 8,500 feet. In contrast Pinchot Pass was at 12,130 feet. Although the hiker has to climb the trail again to nearly 12,000, this section of the John Muir Trail is one of the most scenic (and popular).

One of the most popular (and photographic) segments of the John Muir Trail is in the Rae Lakes Area. This area includes a chain of five lakes: Dollar Lake, Arrow Lake, North Rae, Middle Rae and South Rae Lakes. Not only is this one of the most scenic locations in the Sierra, it is a great place to fish, and is the eastern part of a large hiking loop that starts in Zumwalt Meadow.

Hikers Note: The entire area has excellent campsites, but the hiker is unlikely to be alone when camping here -- a minor price to pay given the beauty of the area.

Classic mountain peaks abound in the Rae Lakes Area. Mt. Clarence King, Fin Dome, Black Mountain, Dragon Peak and Painted Lady to name a few. The hiker may want to stop and enjoy the scenery around South Rae Lake as they refill their water supply. There will be limited water options until one crosses over Glenn Pass (two miles from South Rae Lake). Did you see the ranger station near the Middle Rae Lake?

Glenn Pass is at 11,978 feet (fourth highest on the trail). From here the hiker can take in all the classic peaks in the area and several of the Rae Lakes.

The south side of Glenn Pass resembles that of Mather Pass - a sheer wall with a lake at the base. If the hiker is traveling here early in the season, this pass is likely be covered with snow. Approach and descend the pass with extreme caution.

Hikers Note: There are limited campsites here and if one is low on water, these lakes are likely to be the only water source for a couple more miles.

When the trail reaches tree line again, looking west one can see almost all the way into Kings Canyon -- the car accessible part which most people visit. Charlotte Lake is also nearby and can be visited by a short 1.3 mile side trip. A ranger station is located at the lake as well.

The John Muir Trail continues to descend to Bubbs Creek. As one descends the Bubbs Creek Canyon comes into view. The mountain peaks as the far end give the hiker a preview of next, and final, pass on the John Muir Trail.

Near the junction of the John Muir Trail and Bubbs Creek lies Vidette Meadow. This area includes bear boxes and campsites. Throughout Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks, the Parks Service has installed bear boxes. Although bear canisters are now required in most areas, these bear boxes come in handy to store other items or for food and toiletries that just won't fit in the canister.

Bubbs Creek leads the hiker almost all the way to a pyramid shaped mountain called Junction Peak (13,888 feet). Just west of Junction Peak is Forester Pass. Unlike the previous mountain passes, Forester Pass does not have a lot of lakes near it's summit; in fact it has just one.

Hikers Note: The hiker should use Bubbs Creek if they need water prior to the pass.

As the hiker gains altitude, the mountains looming ahead are those of the Kings-Kern Divide which is one of the highest east-west ridges in the Sierra Nevada. Several peaks on this divide are just shy of 14,000 feet. If the hiker pauses and looks back from where they came, at the far end of Bubbs Creek Canyon are the Kearsarge Pinnacles.

The unnamed lake just below Junction Peak and Forester Pass lies at 12,250 feet -- higher than Pinchot Pass. Forester Pass, however, is another 900 feet higher than the lake at 13,180 feet! Not only is this the highest pass on the John Muir Trail, but also it is the highest pass on the entire Pacific Crest Trail (which goes more than 2,100 miles from the Mexican border to the Canadian border). Forester Pass also marks the boundary between Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks.

Hikers Note: The hiker may want to fill up with water at this lake as the next source is well beyond Forester Pass.